Paper Mache Basics

Here's where you will find everything you need to know to begin creating some great paper mache art. If you already have some knowledge of paper mache you might want to get started on the projects straight away. If not, read more about the basics.

 Getting Started
You will need a large flat surface to work on, something like a kitchen table is great but you can compromise. I do a lot of my paper mache work sitting on the ground so if you're comfortable on the floor it's as good a place as any.

Paper Mache can be messy so it's a good idea to cover your work surface with sheets of newspaper or, if you have one, a plastic tablecloth. I also like to keep a bowl of water and an old towel handy just to rinse my hands if I get too sticky.

Pastes and Glues

PVA or White Glue:

For most of our projects we use PVA or white glue. For gluing the strips, we use it diluted 3 parts glue to 1 part water. In pulp, we use it undiluted from the container.

This is our favourite glue for paper mache as it dries so quickly gives a very strong finish.

Wallpaper Paste:

You could also use wallpaper paste. It does take longer to dry and it gives a softer finish. Some wallpaper pastes have an added fungicide that prevents mould forming while the paper Mache is drying.

When using wallpaper paste mix it up according to the manufacturers instructions but remember that it swells up a lot and a little bit of paste goes a very long way. Store any excess paste in a sealed container.

Flour and Water Paste:

If you prefer, you could make your own paste using flour and water. This is not as strong, can be prone to mould and has been known to attract insects if it's not sealed properly. That said, it does the job and it is the paste that was traditionally used for paper mache.

To make flour and water paste you will need:

• ¼ cup plain flour
  
  
• 1 cup cold water
  
  
• 5 cups boiling water
  
  
• ¼ cup table salt

Mix the flour with the cup of cold water to a thin paste. Make sure there are no lumps in the mixture then add the boiling water. Transfer the mixture to a saucepan and heat gently until the paste thickens. Remove from the heat and add the salt. The salt acts as a preservative. If you can stand the smell, a few drops of oil of cloves makes a very good preservative and can be found in most pharmacies. Don't make up too much of this paste, as it will not keep long. You can store it in an airtight container in the fridge for a couple of days.

Paper

For the projects on this site, we mainly used newspaper but you can use any type of paper you like. The beauty of paper Mache is that anything goes. There are no rules, just a few guidelines.

You can recycle more or less any type of paper or card for your paper Mache. If you're really into recycling, why stop at paper? You could use old curtains, clothes, bed lined etc, torn into strips and pasted into your artwork.

One thing I've learnt from my art is that all paper shrinks as it dries and that different papers shrink at different rates. This means that occasionally, if you are using two different types of paper, your project may warp while it's drying. This is not always a bad thing, as a certain amount on unevenness is part of the charm of paper Mache.

However, if you want a really smooth finish, it's best to use the same type of paper for all your layers. I do like to use two different colours though so I can see at a glance which layer I'm working on if I get distracted. I'm lucky in that our local paper prints the sports pages on pink paper once a week so I use that and ordinary white newspaper.

You could also use old telephone directories and yellow pages. This paper tends to be very thin and you need to use a lot of layers but for a project with a fairly solid base to begin with it can work very well.

Always tear rather than cut the paper, as this gives a neater finish and, because the fibres in the torn edges are of different lengths, it makes the project stronger.

In most projects, I alternate the direction of the paper as I work so that the fibres in the paper lie in different directions, adding strength to the piece.

Pulp

Pulp, or paper clay, is great for fine detail but it's best used for smaller areas of work as it takes so long to dry. To make the pulp we used you will need the following:

• 3 double sheets of tabloid sized newspaper (or 2 broadsheet size).
  
  
• 1 tablespoon of wallpaper paste granules
  
  
• PVA glue
  
  
• Fine sawdust (optional)

Tear the newspaper into small pieces and place them in a large container. Pour boiling water over them and leave to soak overnight.

If you are in a hurry you could boil the paper in an old saucepan but be warned, the smell is not good and the ink stains the pot so don't use one that you will be using for cooking.

Once the paper has been well soaked (or boiled), drain the water of and work the paper in your hands to get rid of all of the lumps. You may want to wear rubber gloves for this job, as the ink can be very messy and hard to get off.

Once you have the paper s smooth as you can get it, sprinkle on the wallpaper paste and knead it in with your hands. Add the PVA glue a bit at a time until you have a mixture about the consistency of clay.

If you like, you can add a handful of fine sawdust to strengthen the mixture. Add the sawdust last and knead it in, adding more PVA if needed.

Unused pulp will keep for a few days in an airtight container in the fridge - but make sure you label it or someone may think you're keeping rotten porridge in your fridge.

Moulds and Armatures

A mould is something you use to shape and support your project and then remove it once it is dry. An armature is a framework you build your project on that remains in place even when the project is finished.

You can use just about anything as a mould or armature for paper Mache. Bowls, pots, bottles and balloons make good moulds. You can make your armature from chicken wire or any old junk you can get your hands on. The baboon was built around a 2-litre lemonade bottle, some wads of newspaper and some old wire coat hangers.

Release Agents

If you are using a mould you may want to use a release agent so you can remove it easily once your work is dry. I usually coat the mould with a layer of paper dipped only in water to start with. This means my art will easily slip off the mould once it is dry.

You could also line your mould with cling film to prevent your work sticking to it. Some artists use Vaseline or dish washing liquid as a release agent but I prefer not to use these as they can leave a greasy film on your work which can make decorating difficult.

Pasting Strips

Now, there are several ways to apply paper strips. The one favoured by many paper mache artists is to dip the strip into the paste and then remove the excess with your fingers.

I prefer to use a brush. If I'm using wallpaper paste I lay the strip of paper on a piece of cardboard or some other pasting board and paste the back of the strip then lift it and place it onto the project.

If, as I usually do, I'm using PVA I apply the glue directly to the project itself, lay the paper onto it and then paste over the paper. This gives a really strong finish as the glue impregnates the paper really well. This method works well with PVA because it dries fairly quickly.

Applying Pulp

Because pulp dries so slowly it's best to use it for small areas. It can be used on larger pieces but apply it in thin layers and allow it to dry really well before adding the next layer.

Pulp is great for fine detail as it can be moulded like clay.

Decorating

This is where you can really be creative. Let your imagination run riot and experiment. I have tried everything from boot polish to beach sand for decorating my paper mache. There is no right or wrong way to do it.

The best way is to experiment. If you don't know how a technique will turn out give it a try. Just don't ruin a great piece of art you've been working on for ages.

I learned that lesson the hard way. I had spent several weeks working on a large pot and had taken a lot of time to lay the paper strips to look like panels. I decorated the pot with a layer of white emulsion tinted with burnt umber artist's acrylic and then added several coats of dark brown boot polish.

The finished pot looked great - I had achieved my aim of making it look like antique wood. However, to seal the project, I painted on a layer of my usual polyurethane varnish. Big mistake! The boot polish changed colour and spread in clumps over the pot. I ended up with a sticky mess that never really dried.

Somehow I managed to get most of it off and sand the pot down to the bare paper. I coated it with emulsion again and reapplied the boot polish but somehow it never looked quite as good as it did the first time.

Now, whenever I want I want to try out something new, I test it first on a few layers of paper pasted onto a piece of card. It sounds like extra work but it's well worth it in the long run.

A couple of things to remember:

• Prime your surface with a suitable primer. I like emulsion paint for this purpose but I also sometimes use two or three coats of undiluted PVA glue as a base to work on. Artist's gesso also makes a good surface to decorate. 
  
  
• Seal your work with a protective finish once your decoration is completely dry.

Protective Finishes

My favourite protective finish is polyurethane varnish. It dries clear and gives a durable coating that can be carefully wiped down with a slightly damp cloth to keep the piece clean. For a really strong finish you could use yacht varnish but be careful if you are using it over a pale colour as it does tend to yellow over time.

I intend to experiment with other possible finishes such as wax and epoxy resin. I will let you know the outcome in any future updates.

The choice of a matt or gloss finish comes down to personal preference. For most of my projects I use a matt finish but many artists prefer to use gloss.

Outdoor Paper Mache

I've been asked many times if paper mache can be used outdoors. I have to be honest and say that I have never done it myself. However, it appears it can be done as there are many artists creating sculptures from paper mache to be displayed outside.

There are a few of things to bear in mind if you want to give it a try:

• Although I have heard a story of a man who apparently made and sailed a paper mache boat, in my experience it is very difficult to truly waterproof it. Make sure you place your sculpture where it will not end up standing in water and preferably give it some sort of protection from the elements by placing it under a roof or in a sheltered corner of your garden.
  
  
• Try to avoid complex shapes so that you can be sure to get your varnish into every nook and cranny. Even the smallest gap in your varnish will let in moisture and ruin your work.
  
  
• Consider coating your outdoor sculpture with latex rather than varnish. This should waterproof your art very well if it is completely covered.
  
  
• You may want to cheat a little by using fabric rather than paper. You can get some very interesting effects by using torn strips of old material in place of paper. If you do decide to give it a go, make sure you use strong glue. PVA or wood glue should work well with most fabrics.

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